Two types of anchors I have used. Again, these should only be used for lowlines.
- Make your webbing into a loop using a water knot, wrap the loop around the tree, clip the ends together with a biner.
This is simple and lies flat, but you’re tri-loading your biner. For short lines, you may feel that you won’t have enough force to worry about. You’re also at the mercy of the length of your webbing. You can, of course, easily extend the length of your webbing with a girth hitched sling, but that’s seriously weakening your anchor.
- This is a more serious anchor
- Fold your webbing in half, slide a rap ring on, clip a carabiner at the fold, wrap the tree, and put the tail of the webbing through the biner
- Bring the tail up and over the webbing then back out the biner, and make a bight on the tail
- Back it up by putting the bight under the webbing you just passed over the anchor
- Pull it tight
This also lies nice and flat, but does require more gear. Hey, no more tri-loading! And you like having gear, don’t you? It’d be good to put a scrap of webbing around the biner to pad the metal/metal contact.
You can even use the munter hitch to de-tension the line to take it down. Just pull out the backup bight, take the tail away from the line (left in the picture) and let the tension out slowly. I’ve done this with 50 foot lines with major tension (with a 6-ish foot tail on the munter hitch).
Here I’m using a rescue pulley and static rope, but you can just run webbing between the biners.
Here I’ve girth hitched both the webbing and the static cord to a rappel ring, and clipped a biner & pulley to the ring. There are many variations you can do here.
Now just run the cord to the pulleys to make a 3:1 Z pulley.