Oct 2

A little warning. While this anchoring system works great for low lines, do not use this method for a highline. If there is height or elevation involved and you are not confident in safe rigging methods, do not highline.

This tutorial was kindly syndicated from Martin’s page

Two types of anchors I have used. Again, these should only be used for lowlines.

  1. Make your webbing into a loop using a water knot, wrap the loop around the tree, clip the ends together with a biner.

    This is simple and lies flat, but you’re tri-loading your biner. For short lines, you may feel that you won’t have enough force to worry about. You’re also at the mercy of the length of your webbing. You can, of course, easily extend the length of your webbing with a girth hitched sling, but that’s seriously weakening your anchor.

  2. This is a more serious anchor
  • Fold your webbing in half, slide a rap ring on, clip a carabiner at the fold, wrap the tree, and put the tail of the webbing through the biner
  • Bring the tail up and over the webbing then back out the biner, and make a bight on the tail

  • Back it up by putting the bight under the webbing you just passed over the anchor

  • Pull it tight

This also lies nice and flat, but does require more gear. Hey, no more tri-loading! And you like having gear, don’t you? It’d be good to put a scrap of webbing around the biner to pad the metal/metal contact.

You can even use the munter hitch to de-tension the line to take it down. Just pull out the backup bight, take the tail away from the line (left in the picture) and let the tension out slowly. I’ve done this with 50 foot lines with major tension (with a 6-ish foot tail on the munter hitch).

Another benefit of this is that you can use the rap ring as your secondary anchor point.

Here I’m using a rescue pulley and static rope, but you can just run webbing between the biners.

Here I’ve girth hitched both the webbing and the static cord to a rappel ring, and clipped a biner & pulley to the ring. There are many variations you can do here.

Now just run the cord to the pulleys to make a 3:1 Z pulley.

Both methods here increase the strength of the anchor by having a double thickness of webbing. This helps to ensure that the anchor is not the weakest part of the system and also disperses the force of the anchor on the tree.


3 comments so far...

  • Chris Said on December 15th, 2008 at 12:46 am:

    Is the “rescue pulley” this http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=347 ? The working load is only 1kn, does this pulley really work well for slackline setup?

  • Scotty Said on December 16th, 2008 at 7:49 pm:

    That pulley, for this application, is being used as a multiplier for the system, seeing a maximum load of maybe 100 pounds. The pulley should not be used for any other part of the rigging system, and especially not for highline application. Should the pulley fail, the line would still be threaded through the biner, which would prevent a total failure of the system. See one of the other articles to find out how to rig the standard multiplier on a primitive system.

  • Heya Said on September 15th, 2011 at 3:54 pm:

    Nice tutorial, the hardest thing for beginners is actually setting up the slackline… how often do you guys get out and slackline?

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