Oct 28

Recently my friend Matt and I hiked up the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, BC and rigged a highline around 40 meters long. This has been a goal of mine for quite some time. So far it has been rigged three times, twice by Matt, that we know of. I’m proud to say that I got the second send.

We left it up for a bit, came back a few days later with a video camera and got this…

Beta:

Approach: From the Chief parking lots, walk up Shannon falls trail to the 3rd summit of the Chief.

Rigging: There are two bolts on the 2nd summit, as for the 3rd summit side, you have to equalize off of trees. We tied string to a rock and hucked it across. This can prove challenging.See more photos and read more about this on our Slackline.com Forums

Big thanks to Matt for the use of his gear and Ryan Warden for filming it.

Robin Avery lives in Vancouver, British Columbia. He enjoys climbing in Squamish, skiing, and slackline.
You can visit his blog at http://extremeginger.blogspot.com




Oct 10

This is some awesome footage of Christian Schou’s world record walk of a 1000m high line in Norway. It certainly isn’t the most difficult highline, but it is the highest in the world!




Oct 2

A little warning. While this anchoring system works great for low lines, do not use this method for a highline. If there is height or elevation involved and you are not confident in safe rigging methods, do not highline.

This tutorial was kindly syndicated from Martin’s page

Two types of anchors I have used. Again, these should only be used for lowlines.

  1. Make your webbing into a loop using a water knot, wrap the loop around the tree, clip the ends together with a biner.

    This is simple and lies flat, but you’re tri-loading your biner. For short lines, you may feel that you won’t have enough force to worry about. You’re also at the mercy of the length of your webbing. You can, of course, easily extend the length of your webbing with a girth hitched sling, but that’s seriously weakening your anchor.

  2. This is a more serious anchor
  • Fold your webbing in half, slide a rap ring on, clip a carabiner at the fold, wrap the tree, and put the tail of the webbing through the biner
  • Bring the tail up and over the webbing then back out the biner, and make a bight on the tail

  • Back it up by putting the bight under the webbing you just passed over the anchor

  • Pull it tight

This also lies nice and flat, but does require more gear. Hey, no more tri-loading! And you like having gear, don’t you? It’d be good to put a scrap of webbing around the biner to pad the metal/metal contact.

You can even use the munter hitch to de-tension the line to take it down. Just pull out the backup bight, take the tail away from the line (left in the picture) and let the tension out slowly. I’ve done this with 50 foot lines with major tension (with a 6-ish foot tail on the munter hitch).

Another benefit of this is that you can use the rap ring as your secondary anchor point.

Here I’m using a rescue pulley and static rope, but you can just run webbing between the biners.

Here I’ve girth hitched both the webbing and the static cord to a rappel ring, and clipped a biner & pulley to the ring. There are many variations you can do here.

Now just run the cord to the pulleys to make a 3:1 Z pulley.

Both methods here increase the strength of the anchor by having a double thickness of webbing. This helps to ensure that the anchor is not the weakest part of the system and also disperses the force of the anchor on the tree.

http://obergma.blogspot.com/




Oct 2

Kindly syndicated from Martin’s page

Using chain links for line lockers has one major downside. They can do this to your webbing:

And it looks worse when it’s under tension!

So here’s my work around.
Get a few inches of webbing and sew it to your chainlink so it covers up the burr more_link_text