all photos courtesy of Corbin Usinger
The Approach: The Approach to the Needles is fairly burly. Drive past Kernville and Johnsondale, California and up into the Sequoia National Forest, passing other climbing areas along the way (Dome Rock). There is a campground near the trailhead. The elevation is about 10,000 ft. and you have to hike 3 miles in to the Needles lookout. From here scramble down the backside talus slopes for about another mile or so. more_link_text
Shawn Snyder on the 60 footer, Slackline Brothers Inc. © 2006
Wow! This place is highline central! There are currently 3 lines at this formation, and they are all burly! more_link_text
Mark Weiner on the 110 Footer, Slackline Brothers Inc. © 2006 more_link_text
The Approach: This line is located between the North and South Astro Dome formations in Joshua Tree National Park, CA.
The Rigging: Beta coming soon…
Astro Domes line - 130 ft. long ~200 feet off the deck
First walk: Corbin Usinger in 11/05 (bolts courtesy Shawn Snyder)
Dylan Buffington at the Doghole, Moab, UT, all photos courtesy of Chris Tota.
Gemini Bridges
The Approach: Gemini Bridges are located near Moab, Utah. To drive there, take the 191 northwest to the 313 west, then follow the jeep road back ast towards Gemini Bridges. There are currently 5 highlines here, but they are spread out, and we don’t yet have the exact location details. more_link_text
Andy Lewis appears in a Japanese T.V. show titled “Believe it or Not” demonstrating his skills in the revolutionary balance sport slackline.
Wes Ellis at the Spire
The Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite- the
holy grail of highlining. This is the most coveted “send” for any
highliner out there. Its the highest highline in the US, and rigging is an epic!
Man enough?
How can you set up a slackline where you are? If you already know how to set up a line but are having troubles finding good anchors, read on. Hopefully this guide will help you out. Obviously you’ll need an anchor for each end of the line. Using a tree on each end is easiest. But if you only have one tree or none at all you’ll have to do a little more work. Well, here are some examples of what you can use for anchors:
**Note: Anytime you are equalizing things like stakes, climbing protection, or bolts make sure you use 1-inch webbing or full strength climbing rope (preferably static) as a minimum to equalize. Furthermore, any part of your slackline set-up that contacts trees or rocks should be padded to prevent abrasion and/or to protect the tree. Use foam, carpet, or cardboard.
Tree: Tree anchors are easiest if your trees are the right distance apart. Simply protect the bark with cardboard or carpet and sling it with webbing. If your trees are too far apart consider anchoring to the base of one or both trees and using A-frames like the ones being used in the last for pictures on this page.
Rock ( w/ Slings): Run webbing around a boulder or rock projection as an anchor. Use this either directly to anchor the line or as an anchor behind an A-frame.
Rock (w/ Climbing Gear): Use climbing protection like stoppers, hexes, and cams to build an equalized anchor from a crack or series of cracks in the rock. Equalize with rope or webbing.
Rock (w/ Bolts): As a last resort rock climbing bolts can be drilled into a rock and equalized for an anchor point. Bolts should be placed so they are loaded in shear, not pulling straight out. Also, keep in mind drilling isn’t legal everywhere and some areas may have an ethic that forbids it. If you don’t know, don’t drill bolts.
Lawn: Drive stakes in the ground and equalize them with webbing for a good anchor. To equalize tie a loop at either end of a piece of webbing (~20 feet long shown here). Put one end-loop on each of the outside stakes. Loop the middle of the webbing behind the middle stake and pull the two big loops of webbing tight as your anchor point. Of course call Digger’s Hotline (or your state’s equivalent) before you put stakes in to avoid hitting a power line/phone line, etc.
Beach: Use 50-gallon garbage cans full of water or sand on pallets as anchors for A-frames. Run 3 tied loops of webbing (1 on each side, 1 in middle) through the gap between the top and bottom of the pallet and push a long 3+ inch diameter piece of wood though all three loops to anchor them. Equalize the loops with webbing/rope for your anchor. This can also be done with one continuous piece of webbing like is done for the stakes (Lawn: above) by tying a knot in each end of a long piece of webbing and threading it back and forth under the pallet and around the piece of wood.
Pavement (w/ Pallet): Anything heavy on a pallet will be a good anchor: sandbags, bricks/block, or 50-gallon garbage cans full of water. There is no set weight needed since it will depend on how slick the pavement is.
It is possible to set up a slackline anywhere you want. An important tool for setting up the perfect line anywhere is the A-frame. The A-frame is a simple wood construction that you can use to set the end of your line at the height and length you want. The line passes over the A-frame (and anchors to it) and goes to whatever anchor you may have. If you’re having troubles finding anchors click here. Tools you’ll need to build the A-frame include a circular saw (a jig/sabre saw will do), a drill, and a 1.5-inch hole saw/spade drill bit. you’ll also need lumber, screws, and wood glue. **Be sure to use safety glasses when using power tools.** You’ll also need a 3/8″ high strength chain link of approximately 5000 pound working load. You can find this chain at Home Depot in most cities. Buy 1 foot of the chain and cut every other link with a hack saw to free the others. You can also use a high strength 2″ rap ring with a breaking strength of no less than 50kN.
Here’s how to build the A-frame:
Step 1:
Cut 2 pieces of wood with a 60 degree angle on one end and a 30 degree on the other. These will be the legs. Use 2X4s if your A-frame will be taller than 30-inches (or if you want a beefy A-frame), 2X3s if it’ll be 30 inches tall or less. The length of the legs is determined by the following equation: L = (height + 2.625) * 1.155. Examples: for a 28″ cut them at 35-3/8″, for 32″ use 40″, for 36″ use 44-9/16″, and for 40″ use 49-1/4″. This is the length of the long side.
Step 2a:
Cut the end of the sharper end 2-5/8″ down from the end (on the edge you cut) at a right angle (90 degrees).
Step 2b:
Repeat for the other piece of wood and place the two pieces together as shown. If you did it right the width of the legs should be about the same as the length you originally cut the wood to i.e. for a 28-inch A-frame the base width would be about 35-3/8″. This wide base keeps the A-frame stable even when doing tricks and falling off.
Step 3:
Keeping the legs in the same orientation place them on a piece of 3/8″ plywood that is already cut to a width of half the A-frames height i.e. 14 inches for a 28-inch tall A-frame. This dimension is vertical in the picture shown. Trace the outside two edges and cut them with a circular saw.
Step 4:
Wood glue and screw the plywood to the legs. Make sure to use enough glue that it seeps out the edges a little. Clean up the excess with a wet rag. Use a screw pattern similar to the one shown. Repeat for the other side. Don’t use the A-frame until the glue is dried.
Step 5a:
From the middle of the top measure down 2-5/8″ for your hole.
Step 5b:
Drill through the A-frame with your 1-1/2″ hole saw/spade drill bit. The hole saw will cut better than a spade bit, which will make a rough hole. With the hole saw you may have to clean the pieces out as you cut through them.
Step 6:
Sand all edges with 120 grit sandpaper doing a really good job on the edges of the hole and the top. These parts will contact the slackline and should be well rounded. When the line is tightened for the first time it will sink into the wood a little and more sanding may be required. Now you’re ready to set up the slackline.
Step 7: Setting Up
For the sake of ease we’ll assume that one end of the line is already anchored to a tree and your other anchor (after the A-frame) will be at ground level (i.e. pallets, a car/truck’s wheels, stakes, the base of a tree etc.). Begin by threading the line through the chain link or rap ring and then through the hole in the A-frame..
Step 8:
Bring the line back over the A-frame and back through the chain link/rap ring.
Step 9:
Tighten up the line around the A-frame where you want it to sit and tie it to your tightening system (not shown in picture). The tightening system is then attached to the anchor. The chain link/rap ring should sit flat on top of the A-frame before tightening. Now you’re ready to tighten. As you tighten and the line stretches you’ll have to move the A-frame so that it stays vertical.
*Be careful when surfing the line since it is possible for A-frames to tip or slide. Look for a coming Tip of the Month on how to surf-proof your A-frame.